Masterclass on Piemonte
If you could pick a single place on earth to eat and drink for the rest of your life? You should consider the rolling hills of Langhe for an endless roller coaster ride of pasta, white truffle, Barolo and Barbaresco wines!
Welcome to this ShareWine Masterclass, where we will take a closer look at the wine region Piemonte situated in the north western part of Italy, at the foot (Pied) of the Alps, on top of the marvelous coast of Liguria.
Facts about Piemonte
Despite Alba being the main city of the most famous part of the wine region, two smaller close by towns pay the names and history for which the region has become world known over the past 30-40 years. Namely, Barolo and Barbaresco! And those we will definitely get back to shortly.
However across Piedmont as a region, an astounding 3 million hectoliters of wine are produced annually. 75% of which is classified as either DOC or DOCG, spread across 60 different grapes and origins.
Wine is being made from various local grape varieties, across vineyards located at altitudes ranging from 150 to 450 meters. Among the white varieties are among others Arneis and Moscato, while among the reds, you're probably familiar with Barbera, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo. And maybe, you might also know the slightly lesser-known varieties like Pelaverga, Grignolino, Favorita and Freisa, which are growing in popularity. Besides this, there's a growing amount of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir planted for the increasing production of the metodo classico sparkling wine Alta Langa.
Barolo and Barbaresco
The most well-known wines from Piedmont, without a doubt, are Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from the Nebbiolo grape.
You've certainly heard of them before, but how well do you actually know the differences between the two in terms of region, DOCGs, and wine type? You have the chance to learn more about this in this Masterclass, where we will take a much closer look at them.
Where the magic happens
To label the wine as Barolo, the Nebbiolo grapes must come from one of 11 different municipalities, which are:
Barolo "di Barolo"
Monforte d' Alba
La Morra
Serralunga d'Alba
Verduno
Castiglione Faletto
Diano d'Alba
Grinzane Cavour
Roddi
Novello
Charesco
Moreover, to become Barolo the wine must be aged for a minimum of 38 months, of which 18 has to be in oak barrels.
To label the wine as Barbaresco, the Nebbiolo grapes must come from one of 4 different municipalities, which are:
Barbaresco
Treiso
Neive
San Rocco
Likewise, to become Barbaresco the wine must be aged for a minimum of 26 months, of which 9 has to be in oak barrels.
The King and the Crus
The small, thin-skinned Nebbiolo grape variety has been known in the area since the 13th century, and although a few farmers recognized its potential early on, it wasn't until the 1980s that many more producers seriously began focusing on quality, refining the wines, and showcasing the grape's outstanding potential. This eventually led to Barolo wine becoming synonymous with the "Wine of Kings."
Generally, the south-facing slopes — exposed towards southeast, south, and southwest — are planted with Nebbiolo, as this is a requirement for the grape to be qualified for making wine becoming Barolo or Barbaresco DOCG.
The first official map of the Barolo Cru system was introduced in 1934. However, it was later followed by an expanded version created by the oenologist Renato Ratti during the 1960s. In 2010, the official classification of these crus was established. "Cru" refers to each of the individual vineyards within the 11 municipalities where Barolo production is permitted. Some of the most renowned crus include Cannubi, Vignarionda, Monvigliero, and Bussia.
Characteristics
Both Barolo and Barbaresco are complex wines not be overly generalized. Factors such as the different soil types, microclimates, and the various Nebbiolo clones found in these areas contribute to significant stylistic variation. The wines can range from being lighter and more approachable in their younger years to being extremely potent with powerful fruit and a stronger tannin structure.
However, if one were to make a general statement, Nebbiolo is a grape with high acidity and tannins, and its intense flavors and complex aroma palette give these wines an exceptional aging potential.
Classico or Cru?
Although both the 11 Barolo municipalities and the 4 Barbaresco municipalities are divided into subzones (crus), the approach hasn't always been to produce single-vineyard wines. Today, this is the predominant trend, but traditionally, most producers blended wine from different single vineyards to create a more balanced and cohesive wine—a "Classico."
If you look at most Barolo or Barbaresco estates today, they have continued this tradition, and while single-vineyard wines are often considered more prestigious, most producers regard their "Classico" or "Normale" as the flagship of the estate.
Only very few producers however make solely a Classico — the most historic and famous being Bartolo Mascarello. This is not because the family doesn't cultivate wine in various crus, but because they remain committed to the traditional philosophy of blending.
The not so "underdog" anymore
In contrast to Barolo being the "king", Barbaresco has often been referred to as the "queen" of Piedmont. This caricature originally stemmed both from a perceived difference in quality between the two areas and the notion that Barolo wines were more powerful and masculine in style, while Barbaresco wines were perceived as more lightweight and feminine. However, this is an exaggerated view, which we at ShareWine certainly do not agree with.
The best producers in Barbaresco have long proven that their vines also contribute to make some of Piedmont's absolute greatest wines. There are many examples of this, however it’s impossible to overlook producers like Roagna, Gaja, and Bruno Giacosa. True legends of Barbaresco that should never be put second in comparisons.
The modernist and traditionalist era
And when speaking of generalizations, there is one distinction that has, in many ways, become synonymous with Piedmont and especially Barolo: The modernists vs. traditionalists.
This philosophical debate divided the region's producers into two camps for decades, although it has since diminished significantly.
In short, it revolved around a number of producers, led by among other prominent names like Elio Altare and Renato Ratti, who searched for inspiration in the 1980s to make their wines more approachable and in line with some of the rather popular styles at the time, such as the wines from Burgundy.
In order to obtain such, they introduces methods like roto fermenters, shorter extraction times during fermentation, and the use of barriques instead of the traditional large botti casks, which truly created an uproar, earning these guys as well as producers like Roberto Voerzio, Chiara Boschis, Elio Grasso, Clerico, and Vietti the nickname "modernists" or simply "Barolo Boys" (as they called themselves).
Over time, however, the initial "war" has calmed down. Today, it can be safely said that the conflict has been resolved, and regarding production methods, the picture is no longer this black and white.
Many have experimented and, over time, adopted the best methods and practices from both "worlds". This means that in many wineries today, one does not strictly adhere to either botti or barrique exclusively. An example of this can be seen in the cellars of both Roberto Voerzio and Chiara Boschis.
The best vintages through history
Especially throughout the 1990s, several great vintages helped to elevate the wines from Barolo and Barbaresco, by creating increased demand particularly from the USA.
There has been many sublime vintages over the decades, but among those that have demonstrated the greatest quality and aging potential over the past 50 years are:
2019
2016
2013
2010
2004
2001
1999
1996
1989
1982
1978
1970
1964