Masterclass on Bordeaux

The History of Bordeaux

Facts: Wine-growing region since 340 AD

Bordeaux has been documented as a wine-growing region since 340 AD. By comparison, wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley since 100 AD. The economic boom in Europe during the 11th century significantly boosted wine production in Bordeaux. Close ties to Britain meant that by the 14th century, a quarter of the production was shipped to the British market. In modern history, the Dutch emerged as strong traders in Bordeaux in the 17th century, draining many swamp areas in Médoc and Graves that were underwater. Haut-Brion was already mentioned as a promising star in Bordeaux during this time. Over the next centuries, the English regained control over these trading channels.

Bordeaux faces the challenge that the most famous and expensive Bordeaux wines account for only about 5% of the total production. In other words, Bordeaux is much more than Lafite, Mouton, Comtesse, and Petrus. The remaining 95% of the production is difficult to sell profitably, and Bordeaux continues to compete with New World wines, which often cost a fraction and receive high scores from various wine critics.

Long-lasting Wines

One thing is certain: Bordeaux produces incredibly long-lasting wines. If you manage to get your hands on bottles that are 10, 15, 20 years old or more, you are sure to have a great experience, and there are plenty of opportunities on the marketplace to make these good buys.

Bordeaux primarily produces red wine, with white wine accounting for only about 10% of the production. A quarter of this white wine production goes to sweet wines like Chateau D'Yquem, for which Bordeaux is world-renowned. The region is also known for the so-called Bordeaux blends, which are emulated in other parts of the world.

The Bordeaux Appellation

Bordeaux contains nearly 50 sub-appellations and is roughly divided into the Left Bank and the Right Bank of the Gironde River. On the Left Bank, the most famous areas are Médoc, Graves, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Margaux, and Pauillac. On the Right Bank, it’s Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, and for sweet wines, Sauternes and Barsac are the most renowned. Unlike many famous wine regions around the world that are nestled in mountain ranges, Bordeaux is quite flat and well-drained, sitting just a few meters above sea level.

Grapes in Bordeaux

The most used grapes in Bordeaux are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec, with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon being the most common white varieties. The most famous red grape is Cabernet Sauvignon, which forms the backbone of wines from Médoc and Graves on the Left Bank. Surprisingly, Merlot is the most widely planted grape across Bordeaux, particularly dominating the Right Bank where the cool and moist soil provides optimal conditions for the grape to ripen.

Cabernet Franc is the third most used grape, primarily on the Right Bank, while Petit Verdot, the last significant grape, adds good acidity in ripe vintages. A classic Left Bank blend typically consists of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc, whereas a Right Bank blend is usually 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

In Bordeaux, the variety of grapes gives the master blender many options in the cellar when composing the wine, but also presents challenges in blending the wine each year. Adjustments can be made to the grape composition to change the expression of a given vintage. The winemaker also decides how much wine will go into the first wine, known as Grand Vin, and how much will be allocated to the second wine, which most estates also produce. The remaining wine is typically sold as bulk wine.

Fact: Merlot is the most widely planted grape, making up 65% of all Bordeaux vineyards.

The harvest and production

The climate in Bordeaux is mild and optimal for viticulture. The Atlantic Ocean provides mild breezes, and the warm Gulf Stream reduces the risk of frost damage. During the summer, the flowering period is critical as it determines both the quantity and quality of the fruit. Summers are usually warm with minimal prolonged rainy periods. However, in some years, the vines can experience drought stress due to the heat, but this is rare. Generally, fungal diseases thrive in the humid climate, necessitating frequent spraying and slowing the adoption of organic farming in Bordeaux compared to other regions.

The harvest typically occurs after about 100 days, although the recent trend has been closer to 110 days to achieve perfectly ripe grapes. The grapes are almost always destemmed, and large fermentation tanks of concrete or stainless steel are usually used for fermentation, which typically lasts 8-10 days and is often temperature-controlled. Maceration, where the must soaks with the skins, usually lasts 1-2 weeks, and natural and local yeasts are used. The wine is often aged in French oak barrels, and since the 1980s, the use of new oak barrels has become more common.

Bordeaux Classification

Broadly, Bordeaux has three classifications, with the most famous being the 1855 classification, which includes wines from 1st to 5th Grand Cru Classé from the Left Bank. Graves also has its own classification, which includes both red and white wines. Finally, the jewel of the Right Bank, Saint-Émilion, has its own classification with Premier Cru Classé A + B and Grands Cru Classé, elevating them above other wines that can only be labeled Grand Cru.

The 1855 classification is still in effect today, albeit in a slightly modified version. When the law was passed, a severe mildew outbreak in Bordeaux meant that production from 1852-1856 was only 50% of normal. Shortly after World War I, the wine trade was in poor shape, and many estates changed hands. It wasn’t until after World War II that the world truly recognized the Right Bank regions of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. In the mid-1960s, Bordeaux wines broke through in the American market. In the 1970s, the first form of En Primeur sales emerged, and in 1972 it was decided that all classified Bordeaux wines had to be bottled at the estate. This means that wines from previous vintages might have been bottled locally, but this will always be indicated on the label.

A string of excellent vintages in the 1980s improved the economic situation for the estates, and in the 1990s, the Asian market joined the Bordeaux wave, dramatically increasing demand.

This concludes the masterclass on Bordeaux, and I hope it has made you thirsty to taste some of these wines. Make sure you browse our selection of Bordeaux auctions to find you next bottle.